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Elevation

Steeps and scenery of Telluride

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by Isaac Woods Stokes (buzz@boulderweekly.com)

How do you define a ski mountain? Words can seldom evoke the feeling that an area conjures up, but snapshots have the ability to put you there in an instant. Imagine yourself perched on your skis with the sensation of vertigo in your stomach, looking down the steep slope at the perfectly preserved Victorian town you are skiing towards. Or feel yourself skiing through an open bowl with the sound of the snow as your skis slice through it serving as your only companion. Picture yourself stopping for a moment to look at the mountain peaks and rubbing your eyes to remind yourself that you are actually in Colorado, not the Swiss Alps.

These are the snapshots of present-day Telluride. The town of Telluride is located in the heart of the San Juan Mountains at the end of a breathtaking box canyon. It is one of the most beautiful spots in the world, yet it is also set amidst dramatic, inhospitable mountains, so how did it evolve into the world-class destination that it is today? No snapshot of the present is complete without a glimpse into the past, and Telluride has a fascinating history.

The Utes were the first people to inhabit the valley and would hunt for animals in this high-altitude environment in the summer, while retreating to lower lands for the cold winters. Anglos did not settle in the area until the first mining claim was made in 1875. This claim turned out to be rich in zinc, lead, copper, iron, silver and gold. Mining for these minerals lead to the creation of 350 miles of tunnels through the mountains. By 1890, the population had increased to 5,000 people, many of whom were immigrants in search of wealth.

However, like many Colorado mining towns, when the mining boom ended, Telluride seemed destined to become a ghost town. Fortunately, a group of locals saw the potential for the development of a ski area in the inspiring, soaring mountains. Over 25 years ago, in 1978, two Colorado natives, Ron Allred and Jim Wells, took over the ski area. Their vision helped to shape Telluride Ski Area into what it is today.

Today it is a legendary mountain. With the addition of Prospect Bowl (not to be missed), the mountain boasts 1,700 acres. For the feeling bordering on vertigo mentioned above and the dramatic ski directly into town, try the appropriately named Lower Plunge to Cat’s Paw to the base. While Telluride is famous for its steep, challenging terrain, the mountain has plenty of terrain to keep intermediate and novice skiers busy. Try the Palmyra lift (Lift No. 9), which serves entirely blue runs, including Dewdrop and Polar Queen. The mountain skis big–with a 12,260 foot summit and 3,500 feet of vertical–so no matter what type of run you choose, it will be a lengthy one.

Telluride also offers the Surge Air Garden terrain park for the XGames set. And for the wool socks crowd, the TopAten Nordic Park has 10K of trails for cross country skiing and snowshoeing at the top of Chair 10. There is a heated tipi for refuge during the snowy days, and a picnic deck with excellent views of the Wilson Range for sunny ones.

Whether you choose to stay in Telluride proper or the Mountain Village, you have easy free access to all of the area without a car. This is a welcome change in the era of crowded and expensive ski-area parking. Telluride and the Mountain Village each are slope side on opposite ends of the resort, and travel between the two, which takes about 15 minutes via the gondola, is always free for pedestrians. A mid-point stopover for drinks at Allred’s, the gondola’s summit restaurant, which has another postcard-perfect view, is highly recommended. Whatever paths you take on the mountain and in the town of Telluride, you are sure to take away vivid imprints that will be with you for life.

Visit www.tellurideskiresort.com or call 866-287-5015 for more info. Sign up on the website for the Eride e-mail newsletter of all of the latest Telluride events. There is also a Hot Deals section, which lets you know about lodging specials, etc. Figure approximately 6.5 hours driving time from Boulder, depending on road conditions.

Respond: letters@boulderweekly.com



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