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High in the San Juans
While San Juan Snowcat is a small operation, they have access to a huge amount of terrain. With a permit area around 30,000 acres in Rio Grande National Forest, snowcat access as high as 13,250 feet, and a snowcat base elevation of 11,111 feet, San Juan Snowcat accesses more alpine skiing terrain than can possibly be tracked up. Their permit area lies in a mountain range due west of San Luis Peak (14,014 feet), just north of Creede, about 35 miles north of Wolf Creek Pass. This range, referred to as the "Lost" San Juan Mountains, receives a substantial snowfall similar to that which has made Wolf Creek famous. Our day began at 8 a.m. at the Bronco Grill in Creede, where we met our guides. Having already downed a healthy breakfast, we headed north of town about 15 minutes to meet the snowcat. Our first "warmup" was a mellow tree run, allowing the guides to assess ability levels of the skiers and riders. From there, the driver picked us up, taking us to around 13,000 feet on a corniced ridge with a steep eastern face. The guides cut a block off the cornice, dropping it on the slope below to check slope stability. Given only minor surface sloughing and a stable lower snowpack, the slope was deemed skiable. One by one, we dropped onto the face, regrouping at the snowcat below. At once, the group was hooked. We continued lap after lap off the high peaks and ridges, breaking momentarily for a great lunch. By late afternoon, our tired legs were telling us to get back to Creede for dinner and relaxation. Downtown Creede has not changed its appearance much since it was a bustling mining town in the late 1800s. Most of the same buildings still stand, although the hardware stores and tack shops of old now house businesses catering to the busy summer tourist season. With its row of old buildings along Main Street, is easy to see why Creede made its way into a few Westerns. Creede was one of John Wayne's favorite towns, providing not only the perfect backdrop for the films, but a place to get away from the usual hype that surrounds a star of the big screen. When the Duke was in Creede, he stayed at Bruce's Snowshoe Lodge, a place where he could find a little peace and quiet away from autograph seekers and film crews. The friendly owners of the Snowshoe keep his favorite room as he liked it, with a few updates, and the requisite pictures of the Duke adorning the walls. Staying in Creede the nights before and after your snowcat ski date is recommended and makes for a great weekend getaway from the Front Range. Call the Snowshoe in advance for reservations, especially if you would like to stay in the John Wayne Room. San Juan Snowcat
Bruce's Snowshoe Lodge
Driving Directions from Boulder/Denver: Take Highway 285 south to Del Norte, then head west on Highway 160 to South Fork. From there, head northwest on Highway 149 to Creede. Respond: letters@boulderweekly.com
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Ed Vita is a man with a vision. In 2004, Ed put his
high-tech career on permanent hold, bid the bustling metropolis of Boulder
goodbye, and headed to the colorful hamlet of Creede. He had just purchased a
small snowcat skiing operation, the first step toward fulfilling his dream of
skiing for work rather than working to ski. San Juan Snowcat is a small and
friendly operation with two snowcats, two trucks, one tent and a very hands-on
owner. On any given day, Ed might be seen driving a snowcat, guiding skiers,
serving lunch or fielding calls and e-mails for reservations. This means that
service is highly personal and that everyone involved in the business is
focused on maximizing your skiing experience.
