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ExactFare

Me Casa es two Casa
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by Jessica Hersh (buzz@boulderweekly.com)

What is better then a fun, successful restaurant full of good food, friendly service, and lots of tequila? Two of them.

Casa Alvarez, a staple of the Boulder Mexican food scene, now has an equally popular twin in Lafayette. The Boulder location (former home of Banana's restaurant-who remembers that one?) is several levels of stucco walls, carpeted floors, wooden tables, brightly colored murals and good acoustics. Regardless of their twins status, the Lafayette locale is nothing like that. It has one level of wood floors and a flat roof that reflect all the sound, which bounces around like popcorn. When more than two tables are full, the noise level makes it impossible to have a quiet conversation. It's not a great place for intimate dates-unless you would rather have one of those intimate silent dates-but it is definitely worth the trip for the food.

The twin nature of the two restaurants is evident in the food since the menu is the same at both places. Owners Ernesto Alvarez and Betty Cormane have crafted a menu featuring the "foods, flavors, and spices" of Jalisco, Mexico. There are all the traditional dishes from both the interior and coastal parts of Mexico: Enchiladas rub shoulders with several shrimp dishes, burritos come in over a dozen varieties, and chiles are championship red and green.

While you peruse the menu, order some Guacamole ($4.99) to go with your chips and salsa. (The first basket of chips and salsa is free, then $2 for subsequent orders.) This hearty avocado dip is fresh and colorful. It tastes good, too. A hot, creamy blend of cheese, sour cream, and salsa served with more chips, the Chile con Queso ($6.50) has a nice bit of bite to it-picante without being unbearable. There are several salads and soups for the next course. Tortilla Soup ($7.50) is a large bowl of chicken broth with shredded chicken, potato pieces, carrot chunks, roasted chiles, and crisp tortilla slivers. It is large enough to make a whole meal or a shared appetizer; and it's tasty enough to want to eat the whole thing.

Combination plates come with one ($5.99), two ($6.99), or three ($7.99) items plus rice and beans. Enchiladas, tacos, chiles rellenos and tamales can be ordered in almost any combination you can imagine, and with several fillings. Chicken enchiladas are loaded with seasoned, shredded meat. Cheese ones are oozing with melted cheese and onions. Tacos come in several meat choices, or bean and cheese, tofu or guacamole for the non-meat eaters. You can get your rellenos and enchiladas smothered in meat chiles or vegetarian ones. There aren't many places that offer good vegetarian green chile; it is always a nice treat to find some.

Burritos are large, flour-tortilla-wrapped, football-shaped mounds of fillings. Whether you choose Bean and Cheese ($4.99) or Breakfast Burrito ($7.99) you can be assured of a filling meal. Pork Green Burrito ($6.99) is a house favorite featuring their award-winning green chile and beans in a tortilla, smothered with more chile and cheese. The Gaucho Burrito ($8.50) is loaded with carne asada (grilled steak) strips and topped with lettuce, tomatoes and chimichuri sauce. Chimichuri is a classic Argentinean sauce that originated with horse-wrangling gauchos who eat large amounts of meat. The waiter described the sauce as being like an Italian sauce, which I found to be an interesting description. It is usually a very garlicky, chopped sauce with lots of parsley. In this case it complements the grilled steak very well.

The seafood section of the menu is full of shrimp dishes ranging from Shrimp Cocktail (8.99) to Al Mojo de Ajo (shrimp in garlic butter-$11.99). There are also a couple fish dishes. Fish Tacos ($7.99) are grilled pollack with pico de gallo and cabbage. Mojarra Frita ($9.75) is a whole deep-fried tilapia served with pico de gallo and avocado. Delicious.

Ready for dessert? In addition to the usual sopaipillas, liqueur-flavored flans are on offer. How about drinks, you ask? Tequila, in the form of Margaritas, is prominent. And if you don't like the juice of the agave, don't worry, beer flows plentifully from the bar.

The service is friendly, as well, although you might have to shout at the server to place your order. Bring your earplugs and appetite-Casa Alvarez is waiting for you.

Respond: letters@boulderweekly.com



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